Beer Wars

In telling the story of the monopolized condition of America's beer sales, writer/director/producer Anat Baron (formerly of Mike's Hard Lemonade) compulsively errs on the side of Goliath beer companies (Anheuser-Bush, Miller, and Coors) over a vast number of David-positioned craft breweries that the documentary timidly approaches. Baron comes up short by following only two craft beer brewers, Sam Calagione (Dogfish Head Brewery) and Rhonda Kallman (Moonshot Beer), competing with 1400 other craft brewers busy eating away at corporate market share with a big variety of great tasting beers. Baron touches base with the Stone Brewing company but doesn't begin to explain that company's enormous impact on the current beer revolution. Nonetheless, "Beer Wars" is an informative and enjoyable documentary about America's arcane laws that control the shipment and delivery of beer, and about some of the ways that the corporate beer giants that own 98% of the market block out any and all competition. The film scratches the surface of showing the human passion that craft brewers and their fans apply to the beer they love so much. Even if "Beer Wars" works best as a brief introduction to craft beers, and inspires audiences to explore craft breweries in their area and beyond, then the film works. "Beer Wars" premiers on DVD

Not Rated. 89 mins. (B-) (Three Stars)